The clamping into a corner is an excellent example of exactly constraining a part, I’m not sure why it’s not used more in modern instances, but is an excellent fixture design technique
All the trad wooden marking gauges clamp into a slight concave hollow with a matching convex curve on the stem, self locating and lock solid.
The slight convex curve of the face of the stem also allow more control on the depth of the pin or knife as you twist it slightly as you go.
The curves of the stem top and the and the block itself are also comfortable on the hand. This is important as e.g. a large batch of trad sash windows can involve a day or more of solid marking up and comfort is essential. Sharp angles not good, but worst of all are those daft metal wheeled gadgets.
There is no need ever to file a pin and in fact they rarely need touching from one year to the next - they don't do much work as they are trailed over the workpiece and keep sharp just by being used.
The best screws are the large plastic or wood wing nut shapes with a coarse thread.
In other words they are perfect.
Sorry, but any attempt to re design them is like trying to re-design the wheel!
this article is informative and absolutely hilarious. i almost got coffee up my nose at one point. thanks for the read!
Thanks Jon. Much like the BBC, I aim to educate and inform. With some jokes thrown in. And some profanity.
Thanks for sharing, Best marking guage design I've seen so far. Love the use of a scalpel blade. Definitely putting this one on the project list.
The clamping into a corner is an excellent example of exactly constraining a part, I’m not sure why it’s not used more in modern instances, but is an excellent fixture design technique
The sketchup warehouse link is having some issues. Any chance of an update to that? Thanks!
Do you make them for sale?
If so, how much?
Sorry, I don’t sell them. It’s going to take me 3 months to make a simple wooden box. That’s about all I can handle 😆
Hi Ed hope you well, just spotted this!
All the trad wooden marking gauges clamp into a slight concave hollow with a matching convex curve on the stem, self locating and lock solid.
The slight convex curve of the face of the stem also allow more control on the depth of the pin or knife as you twist it slightly as you go.
The curves of the stem top and the and the block itself are also comfortable on the hand. This is important as e.g. a large batch of trad sash windows can involve a day or more of solid marking up and comfort is essential. Sharp angles not good, but worst of all are those daft metal wheeled gadgets.
There is no need ever to file a pin and in fact they rarely need touching from one year to the next - they don't do much work as they are trailed over the workpiece and keep sharp just by being used.
The best screws are the large plastic or wood wing nut shapes with a coarse thread.
In other words they are perfect.
Sorry, but any attempt to re design them is like trying to re-design the wheel!
I’m well thanks Jacob, hope you are too.
PS and the trad knife cutters are held by a simple wedge, hardwood or brass, hence no need for a screw.
That’s great, glad someone made it 🙂